GUILON-GUILON: A LIVELY HARVEST OF DAGUPAN'S FAMOUS BONUAN BANGUS

It is usually done before the sun fully casts its golden light across the early morning sky, or in the early evening when the river's waters ebb at low tide. But whenever it's done, the guilon-guilon, or bangus harvest in Pangalatok, is guaranteed to be a lively gathering of fisher folks in bustling Dagupan City in northern Pangasinan.

Here, where the brackish waters of Dawel, Salapingao, Binmaley, or any of the city's 13 major rivers join the Lingayen Gulf, the guilon-guilon reflects the fulfillment of the hard work and perseverance of Dagupan's fishermen. From the city's fishponds and fish pens the Bonuan bangus is harvested - a marine delicacy long prized for its rich milky taste. In fish pens during harvest time, men dive to as much as 10 meters deep to secure the nets below. Above, men pull the nets supported by bamboo poles to gather their catch.

Dagupan City's location along the southern shores of Lingayen Gulf, and the thick marshes along its coast provide the most ideal breeding ground for this special type of milkfish. Belonging to the sole living species in the family Chanidae, the wild bangus tend to school around Pangasinan's coasts and outlying islands.

According to Mama Sita's Mr. Ramon Reyes, himself an expert in agribusiness and fish culture, the youngest bangus larvae come from the sea to Dagupan's mangrove swamps and estuaries and stay there for two to three weeks, returning to the wide expanse of Lingayen Gulf and South China Sea to mature sexually and reproduce.

In bangus culture, the larvae are collected from the river mouths and kept in ponds where they are raised on a diet of benthic blue algae, or lablab in the vernacular, favored by milkfish. In fishponds where lablab is plentiful, the milkfish do not have to swim great lengths to look for food. Fish pen owners, on the other hand, allow the bangus larvae to grow into fingerlings (or kawag) before they are transported into the brackish marine pens and are raised on formulated feeds. The rich waters of Dagupan's rivers supplement their diet with microscopic diatoms and planktons.

To the regular shopper, all bangus look alike and identifying an authentic Bonuan poses a tedious problem. So how does one identify an authentic Bonuan? The most conspicuous indicators are its short arched belly, fine, shiny scales, short tail and small head. Inside, the flesh should be juicy and tender, and the fat is not concentrated on the belly but distributed evenly all throughout the body. "This," says Mr. Reyes, "gives the Bonuan bangus its distinctive milky taste, which is why the fish is called milkfish in the first place."

Where the Salapingao and Dawel rivers meet to exit into Lingayen Gulf, the wide expanse of water is strewn with a matrix of nets and bamboo poles with a small thatched house on stilts that serve as a lookout. On any given afternoon, one might see men perched on the small hut, emptying containers of feed onto the churning waters below as the bangus go on a feeding frenzy. But just before harvesting, the bangus is fed day-old bread to cleanse their innards.

"Lahat ng mga taong nakatira sa mga barangay dito sa mga ilog, bangus ang ikinabubuhay," ("The people who live in the barangays along the rivers live by raising bangus") says fish pen owner Joseph Estrada. "Ito na ang minana namin sa aming mga ninuno." ("This is the livelihood we've inherited from our forefathers.") Aside from growing bangus, Estrada also cultures oysters and grows other marine delicacies such as samaral. But bangus growing remains his main source of income.

Indeed, the Bonuan bangus forms the backbone of Dagupan's fishing industry. Pangasinan is the country's top supplier of bangus and Dagupan ranks among the top producers of milkfish in the province. From 2001-2003, the city's milkfish harvest provided 16.8 percent of Pangasinan's total production by yielding 35,560.1 metric tons of bangus. The bangus in its fresh form find its way into markets all over the country, while others are processed - deboned, smoked (tinapa), or butterflied and marinated in vinegar and spices (dinaing) - and packed for the local and export markets.

During the annual Bangus Festival, the fish is barbecued on open grills to form the world's longest barbecue and put the Philippines on The Guinness Book of World Records. But Bonuan bangus grilled atop a pit of live charcoal may be the easiest way to cook this delicacy. The more imaginative epicures and culinary artists participate in the contest "101 Ways to Cook Bangus" to come up with a staggering list of surprising bangus concoctions such as Pan Fried Bangus with Gruyere Cheese, or Butterflied Bangus in Mushroom Sauce.

Traditionalists who opt for the comforting flavors of home-cooked meals can always rely on the Mama Sita's sauces and mixes to create the flavors of real Filipino cooking. After all, there is no better way to prepare a prized delicacy than by using the finest ingredients and condiments. One can prepare a tasty sinigang using the delectable Bonuan bangus and Mama Sita's Sinigang sa Sampalok Mix. The delightfully tart and fruity appeal of Mama Sita's Sinigang sa Sampalok Mix, obtained by using real sampalok extracts --- not artificial substitutes, provides a tangy charm to the Bonuan bangus' creamy flavor.

Not surprisingly, the Bonuan bangus also lends a savory appeal to a hearty bouillabaisse soup... Bataan-style. For this one, the bangus, along with halved, large alimasag, suahe, okra and kangkong are simmered slowly in Mama Sita's Sinigang sa Bayabas Mix. The piquant and fruity zest of Mama Sita's Sinigang sa Bayabas Mix lacing freshly caught seafood makes for a feast of appetizing flavors and redolent aromas.

Of course one can always enjoy Bonuan bangus the traditional way. Deboned and fried to golden perfection, served with fried rice and fried eggs, and accompanied by the sharp tang of Mama Sita's Sukang Tuba coconut vinegar. Now that's a perfect way to start the day!

As parts of the Philippine's rich culinary heritage, Mama Sita's and Bonuan bangus do indeed make the perfect partners... one would be lacking without the other.

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